Hotel Spotlight: Blackberry Farm
“Seventy-five minutes. That’s all it took.”
I had just scooted into
the velvet banquette, my hand reaching for the amber glass of ice water and eyes taking a quick scan of the menu when Greg leaned over the well-dressed table and matter-of-factly whispered, "We're coming back".
Before arriving I was aware of the strong possibility that a taste of Blackberry Farm may not be enough and that a return visit would be inevitable. This Relais & Chateaux property had been on my bucket list since I moved to Tennessee 6 years ago. When a property charges a hefty sum (to put it bluntly) per night and it's hard to find availability, your expectations are high. While I was expecting to love it, I was not expecting for it to capture my family’s heart so quickly. And by quickly, I mean a short seventy-five minutes consisting of checking-in, taking a lovely (but hot) horse-drawn carriage tour of the property and being escorted to our table for lunch. Not typical highlights, but that's all it took. So, just what was it that captured us?
Set on 4,200 acres in Eastern Tennessee's Great Smoky Mountain foothills, Blackberry Farm is one of the most celebrated intimate luxury hotels in the world. These days it seems the word "farm" is used liberally to describe everything from home decor to cuisine, but here it is not some quaint label. The pastoral property is first and foremost a working farm, its roots just as much its present as its past. Today, you can expect Southern hospitality, gourmet meals and luxury accommodations to be staples of your experience.
From the moment
we arrived on a Sunday afternoon, we felt right at home. While check-in is at 4pm, guests are encouraged to arrive early and enjoy the property all day (and similarly stay as late as they’d like on their day of departure). By the time our room was ready we had already received a detailed account of the property's history, had our first taste of Blackberry's acclaimed cuisine, and attended the Farmstead Field School, where we took a comprehensive tour of the working areas of the heirloom gardens and livestock pasture, culminating in a tasting of cheeses, meats, preserves and beer. The busy afternoon was a perfect introduction to the property, laying the foundation for a wonderful stay. I highly recommend you start your trip the same way!
Our room was lovely, to say the least. A charming wooden cottage tucked into the forest. The decor - which can be found throughout the property in both the common areas and 68 guest suites - is a blend of traditional meets rustic Estate-chic. Think plaid upholstered furniture, stone fireplaces, dark wood floors and crisp white linens. A beautiful combination that feels elevated yet welcoming. Blackberry offers a variety of room types and sizes (up to 5-bedroom houses), and we decided to go with a Singing Brook cottage (affectionately named Leather Britches), which was perfect for me, Greg and Sophie. The cottage was extremely spacious with a full living room and large bathroom, and the secluded location made the porch a perfect spot to curl up and read a book.
Everything on the
green rolling hills that lead to the stunning Smoky Mountain views is simply a stage for the real show: the food on your plate. Meals are everything at Blackberry Farm. And it makes sense. After all, you have to remember it is first and foremost a working farm. Gardeners, foragers, cheesemakers, butchers, bakers and preservationists use what the local environment seasonally offers to create dishes reflective of the region, known as Foothills Cuisine. Think Southern comfort meets delicate and refined. Homemade jams, buttermilk biscuits, cured meats, roasted peaches, grilled vegetables, whiskey, wines. Everything served is noteworthy. With two beautiful restaurants, Dogwood and The Barn, and menus that are constantly changing, we found our days happily revolved around mealtime (breakfast, lunch and dinner), and yours will too. One thing I'd like to point out, as I didn't realize this until we arrived, is all meals are included in your room price. While factoring that in still won’t make the room cost look inexpensive, it is a significant perk that is worth noting!
Between meals our days were spent leisurely exploring the property. We'd hop in the golf cart that was included with our room and cruise along the hills, stopping here and there to let Sophie say hello to the livestock, take a canoe ride around the pond or play on the swing. Hands down, though, our favorite part of the day though was lunch! We'd stop by the Main House and ask for a picnic to-go. Within minutes we'd have a basket full of fresh sandwiches, hummus & crudités, and soft gluten-free chocolate chip cookies. Guests are free to roam the entire property, so we'd jump back on the golf cart and drive until we found the picture-perfect spot. And in something as seemingly simple as a picnic, you see the real beauty of Blackberry: enjoying a well-cooked meal, exploring the great outdoors and embracing the need for rest and recovery.
For those who prefer
their days to be more action-packed, Blackberry offers endless activities and classes to partake in. From fly fishing to archery to mountain biking, or spa days and cooking classes, the property has daily experiences of all kinds, and is known for having a full calendar of special events such as intimate sessions with music royalty and weekend cycling tours. One complaint you may hear of Blackberry Farm (yes, it's true, people do typically have a common complaint) is that for the price you pay, activities should be included in your nightly rate (they are not - everything, which a few exceptions, is an additional add-on). And while I don't disagree with this complaint, I do encourage you to book at least one or two activities that pique your interest. Why? Simply put: the staff. They are tradesmen and storytellers who invite you into their world and bring the farm to life in a way you would never discover on your own. They are the ones who call the animals by name (with as many as 500, it's an impressive feat!) so you can feed them. They are the ones who will paint a picture for you of how the property got its name. They know Blackberry through and through and love nothing more than to share their home with you. While there are many activities to choose from, I recommend the Farmstead Tasting Tour for an up-close look at many aspects of the farm, and for families, the Working Farm Tour, which allows children to meet the animals and assist with a few chores around the property.
When you hear the words
“luxury” or “intimate”, it might give pause to those of you with children, but do not be intimidated! Blackberry Farm is undoubtedly both of those things, but it is also incredibly family-friendly. I'm so happy we brought Sophie, as being able to experience the property through her eyes added a special element to the trip! Watching her walk through the garden with her little Hunter boots, wet with dew, gathering eggs in the chicken coop, putting her hands out to feed the sheep their breakfast, running through the splash pad at the pool, it was all so memorable, and the staff couldn't have been more welcoming or sweet with her. For families with older children (4 years and up), Camp Blackberry and Blackberry Youth Discovery offer adventures tailored-made for kids, from stream exploration and hiking to culinary and art classes. Also worth noting, Blackberry Farm is the only hotel I've ever been to that not only offers a children's menu, but has a menu specifically for infants with fresh puréed meals. The farm's littlest guests are just as important, and for parents, these touches go a long way. We were even able to have one of the Camp Blackberry team members babysit Sophie so we could enjoy a quiet dinner at The Barn!
As our car finally turned back onto the main road, and we took one last look at the beautiful stone buildings dotting the hillside, neither Greg nor I were surprised that we loved our stay at Blackberry Farm. We had heard amazing things for years, and our high expectations were easily met. But what was it that made it so special? I think it all comes down to Blackberry Farm’s deep rooted sense of place. In the luxury travel world you often hear the phrase “sense of place”, and when accomplished, it’s a key component that sets apart the best from the very best. When a hotel is authentic to its location, culture and history, allowing its unique perspective to guide every detail of the property and your stay, combined with the highest standard of service and hospitality, you have something that is undeniably special. Thinking through my favorite hotels of all time, my clear choices for the top three spots each perfectly melded authenticity with excellence, but I think I can honestly say that no one shares its sense of place as well as Blackberry Farm. And as you enjoy your first meal on the Dogwood terrace with the Smoky Mountain view before you, I have no doubt you will know exactly what I mean.
A NOTE ON COVID-19: Before I wrap up I quickly want to touch on the safety measures Blackberry Farm is taking in regards to COVID-19, as I know many people are uncomfortable traveling at this time. This was my first time staying at a hotel since the pandemic hit, and in my opinion, Blackberry couldn't have handled it any better! Between multiple sanitation cleanings daily, spaced out arrivals to allow for individualized guest check-in, limited size of guests per activity, and housekeeping modified to your personal preference, we felt completely safe during our stay. Staff is required to wear masks at all times, but guests are not. They are taking their wellbeing efforts seriously but doing it in a subtle way that I hardly noticed, allowing for a true escape. I believe the key is that Blackberry is meant to be experienced outdoors. Aside from a morning at the spa and one dinner, our entire 3-day stay was spent outside. This wasn’t a conscious choice we made as it simply was what we were drawn to. It felt like the perfect introduction to hotel travel in 2020 as I did not feel like we were sacrificing any of the typical Blackberry experience. If you're looking for a safe trip (especially for Southern/Eastern states who can drive), Blackberry Farm is a terrific option! But the secret is out! Most dates (if not all) this year are booked, but worth thinking ahead or putting your name on the waitlist.
For more information regarding a stay with Blackberry Farm, as well as a room tour of our cottage and video footage, be sure to head to my Instagram @bycourtneybrown
