The Big Sky of Montana is ominous this night - different from the colorful vistas that are usually associated with the nickname - but beautiful in its own right. Lightning flashes repeatedly over the mountains in the distance, and we move quickly toward our tent to avoid the downpour that seems imminent. The storm reaches us shortly after we get under cover, raindrops pelting the canvas that's keeping us dry. But the fire is already crackling, its warmth and glow a stark contrast to…

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